
The limestone peaks that have filled Chinese painting for a thousand years are still there, exactly as painted. And you explore them by boat, by bike and on foot.
Guilin is the gateway; the real landscape is on the Li River and in Yangshuo. Tourism has been here for decades, but the valley is vast and there are corners where you meet no one.
Longji, two hours from Guilin, adds another layer: rice terraces carved by hand over seven hundred years, with Zhuang and Yao minority villages at the top.
Four hours from Guilin to Yangshuo between karst peaks. The stretch at Xingping is the one on the 20-yuan note.
Terraces from 300 to 1,100 m. Green from May to June, gold in September. Zhuang and Yao communities live here.
Flat routes between rice fields, villages and the Yulong River. The best way to see the valley without a coach.
A 240 m-high cave of floodlit stalactites. Tourist-heavy, but genuinely spectacular.
A pedestrian street of local food, cooking classes and bars. Tourist-focused without being unbearable outside peak season.
The classic photographers' viewpoint: a half-hour climb with the river at your feet in the mist.
The usual mistake is to stay only in Guilin and do the river as a day trip. What works is one night in Guilin and two in Yangshuo, plus a separate night up among the Longji terraces.
April to October. May and June are best for green terraces and higher water levels; September brings the gold of harvest. July and August are hot, humid and wetter.
Three moments worth the alarm: the Li River at Xingping at dawn, the Xianggong viewpoint in the mist, and Longji first thing, before the buses arrive. We arrange early starts with a private driver and a licensed English-speaking guide.

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