Xi'an, where the
Silk Road begins
Capital of thirteen dynasties and the starting point of the Silk Road. Xi'an is also the city that hid an army of clay for 2,200 years without anyone knowing.
Xi'an was the centre of the Chinese world for more than a thousand years. Here the first Qin emperor buried his terracotta army, here the Silk Road began, and here the only complete city wall in China still stands.
The city pairs its historic core — wall, towers, Muslim Quarter — with one of the most astonishing archaeological finds on the planet. Two days is the minimum; three lets you add Mount Hua or the warriors at a relaxed pace.
What to see
Terracotta Army
More than 8,000 life-size figures, every face different. Go in the morning and in this order: Pit 1 (the big one), Pit 3 (the command post), Pit 2 (the archers).
City wall
14 km end to end, 12 m wide. Hire a bike and ride the full loop in about 100 minutes.
Muslim Quarter
Lanes around the Great Mosque, thick with skewers, lamb-stuffed flatbreads and rice steamed in clay pots. The best casual dinner of the whole trip.
Drum and Bell Towers
The exact centre of the old city, lit up at night. Climb the Drum Tower for the best view down the axis.
Shuyuanmen and the Stele Forest
A lane of bookshops, brushes and calligraphy beside China's largest collection of stone steles.
Mount Hua (optional)
Two hours by bullet train. Hiking with vertical steps chained to the rock, if your trip includes a mountain day.
How to split your days
The temptation is to do Xi'an in a day. You can, and it's a mistake: the Terracotta Army demands three hours of concentration, and the city wall asks for sunset. Our licensed English-speaking guides in Xi'an build the wall ride and the warriors around the light and the crowds.
- Day 1 — Wall by bike, Drum Tower, Muslim Quarter at dusk.
- Day 2 — Terracotta Army in the morning, Wild Goose Pagoda in the afternoon.
- Day 3 (optional) — Mount Hua, the Stele Forest or a local cooking class.
When to travel to Xi'an
March to May and September to November are the sweet spots. Summer is hot and crowded with domestic travellers; winter is cold but dry and quiet.
- April–May — mild and green, the best all-round window.
- June–August — hot and busy; start early and rest at midday.
- September–October — clear and comfortable, busy around National Day.
- November–February — cold and dry, but the monuments are yours.
Shaanxi food
One of the best regional cuisines in China, and one that barely appears in brochures: roujiamo (bread with braised meat), biangbiang (wide belt noodles), yangrou paomo (lamb with torn bread) and liangpi (cold starch noodles). Mildly spicy and easy to dial up or down.
- Book Terracotta Army tickets with your passport; entry runs on timed slots.
- The Muslim Quarter is at its best after 18:00, when the lights come on.
- From Beijing the high-speed train takes 4.5–6 hours and drops you in the centre — worth it over flying.
- Very little English is spoken in Xi'an; a guide saves hours on tickets, taxis and menus.
Frequently asked questions
How long do I need for the Terracotta Army?
Is the city wall worth it?
Can I combine Xi'an with Tibet?
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