
Six hundred years of imperial power packed into a plan of concentric rings. You don't so much visit Beijing as peel it, layer by layer, from the centre outwards.
Beijing is the natural gateway to China: almost every route begins and ends here. The city is built in rings around the Forbidden City, and you feel that layout the moment you start walking.
The Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven and the Great Wall are the three pillars, but the gap between a decent trip and a great one is in the details: entering the Forbidden City through a side gate, climbing the Wall at Mutianyu instead of Badaling, and eating in a hutong rather than a hotel restaurant.
980 buildings and 24 emperors. You enter through the south (Meridian) gate and exit north — a two to four hour walk. Book ahead: there is a strict daily quota.
The best-preserved section and the least crowded. Cable car up, toboggan down. Two hours of real wall, without the coach-loads.
A 273-hectare park where locals dance, play chess and sing opera at dawn. The round wooden hall built without a single nail is the postcard everyone comes for.
Traditional lanes around Houhai Lake. This is where you understand how Beijingers used to live — and still do — far from the monumental axis.
Gardens, a lake and the Long Corridor beside Longevity Hill. Perfect for a late afternoon and at its most photogenic in autumn.
Beijing's only Tibetan temple, home to an 18 m sandalwood Buddha, ten minutes' walk from the city's oldest street.
What works: one day for the imperial axis (Forbidden City + Tiananmen Square + Temple of Heaven), a full day for the Wall, and half a day for the hutongs and the Summer Palace. Three days covers the essentials; four lets you slow down.
April–May and September–October are ideal: mild temperatures and clear skies. Winter is dry and cold, but quieter and cheaper. Avoid Golden Week (1–7 October) and Chinese New Year.
Peking duck is compulsory, but it isn't the whole story: boiled dumplings, millet couscous, skewers in the Muslim quarter of Niujie, and the local breakfast of douzhi (fermented mung-bean drink) with youtiao. We always flag vegetarian and no-chilli options in advance.


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